An Evening at Chambers in NYC
A few weeks ago, I went New York City to be a part of Lenn Thompson’s Cabernet Franc tasting panel for an upcoming report for his newsletter Press Fraction. The trip was brief, but one of my top priorities was checking out Chambers in Manhattan’s Tribeca neighbourhood. Chambers restaurant is the post-pandemic reincarnation of Racines NY, which existed in the same space.
The ingredient-driven food menu was equally comforting as it was refined. The hospitality was enthusiastic and gracious, striking the perfect balance between attentive and laid back. The energy and atmosphere was exactly what the doctor ordered as a solo, wine nerd diner in New York City on her first night in the city.
But let’s be serious here. I went to Chambers for the wine list. And more specifically the Loire Cabernet Franc list. Curated by wine legend and Loire-native Pasacline Lepeltier, I kinda expected that she would’ve curated a fine selection of Cabernet Francs from the Loire, but I was blown away by the depth and breadth of the list.
First of all, there must’ve been at least 50+ Cabernet Francs here. Second, the selections were broken down by appellation (Saumur, Chinon, Bourgueil, etc). This is NOT normal folks. In most restaurants, I expect to see one or two Loire Cabernet Franc (if any), and once in a blue moon, maybe there's a half a dozen. But this. This kind of wine list only happens in my dreams. And if that wasn’t enough, it hit a diverse range of price points and vintages, new and back vintage, AND there were some familiar names, of course, but plenty for a Loire nerd like me to explore.
Now, I fully expected Pascaline to know her list inside and out, and she did manage to chat a bit about some of the selections amidst a busy Friday evening service. But I must give a special shout out to sommelier extraordinaire Ellis. Not only did they suggest new producers that I had yet to try, Ellis was able to go toe-to-toe with me answering all of my nerdiest questions with ease and confidence. What side of the Vienne is the village on? What commune in Anjou is the lieu-dit? What is the soil are we dealing with here? What philosophical camp does this vigneron subscribe to? Etc.
Someone. Pinch. Me.
I dream that one day there are Loire Cabernet Franc lists like this all over. Each restaurant with their own “Ellis” (or two!) that can wax poetically (if asked) about the many limestones in Saumur and Saumur-Champigny, the communes in Chinon, and Bourgueil lieux-dits… or that can suggest that the early-drinking Chinon from the gravelly soils in Cravant-les-Côteaux will be a fine match for the roast chicken… or that the Grand Mont from Bourgueil should really be decanted and would need a fine steak for those tannins to cut through… or that the perfumed and ethereal Saumur Rouge is crying out for the duck confit with sour cherry-thyme compote… le sigh….
I will do whatever I can to help inform and inspire wine professionals and enthusiasts to think about Loire Valley Cabernet Franc the way that others think about Burgundy and Piedmont. We got a long way to go, but I remain optimistic!
**
Thanks to the expert advice from Ellis, I enjoyed the below two wines. Both of these wines were new discoveries for me, which was part of the joy of this experience and the list. And now I've got a couple new producers to try and visit on my next trip to the Loire.
Patrick Corbineau, 2002 “Conquètes” Touraine Rouge - From the commune of Candes-Saint-Martin, on the plateau on the southwest corner of where the Vienne River meets the Loire River. While this commune is now part of the expanded version of Chinon, this village has more in commune with the neighbouring commune of Montsoreau, which is part of the Saumur-Champigny appellation positioned squarely on the tuffeau on the plateau on the southside of the Loire. From what Pascaline and Ellis shared, Patrick is one of the most humble and gracious vignerons out there. From the banner 2002 vintage, this wine was absolutely singing. It is very much in the traditionalist camp, and if you have ever had the pleasure of enjoying a wine from Jérôme Lenoir, then this wine is along those same veins. While Jérome’s wines tend to have a bit more meat on their bones, this was a lean and lithe Cabernet Franc, laser-focused, poised and enchanting.
Domaine Andrée (Stéphane Érissé), 2016 “Les Mines” Anjou Rouge - A relative newcomer in Anjou, Ellis recommended the Les Mines for its stylistic similarities to the Patrick Corbineau but from Anjou Noir soils. Located in the commune of Saint-Georges-sur-Layon, Stéphane is working with 3 hectares of vines. Here, we are literally at the intersection of where the limestone soils of the Paris Basin end and the metamorphic schists and sandstones of the Massif Armoricain begin. The name “Les Mines” (translating to English “the mines”) is a nod to the dark grey schist soils. Having worked under Antoine Foucault of Domaine du Collier for three years starting his own project, the influence from Stéphane’s mentor and friend is evident. This wine, while young, was a really exciting one to taste. Compelling, a bit mysterious, it has a weight and structure very similar to the Corbineau. but with a different energy - like song composed in a minor key as opposed to a major one (if that makes sense to folks!). I managed to track down a bottle of Stéphane’s “Carbone” cuvée, so hopefully there will be a video to come featuring this wine so I can share a bit more on this domaine.
